The first chapter of our annual co-selection is HILANDERAS.
Forgotten art that transforms plant or animal fibers into thread, and with that thread, weaves fabrics to clothe life in the best possible way.
To return to the spinners, to the act of spinning, one must go back to washing wool or other fibers like linen; to drying, carding, combing... one must return to the old-fashioned use of the spindle, the spinning wheel, the various crafts produced by wise hands that spun, giving just the right amount of time, and had to be quick-witted, interweaving new fibers to successfully complete the noble work of spinning for crafting.
The spinning wheel, also known as a spinning machine, spinning wheel, or spindle; is a tool for manually spinning textile fibers. This tool consists of a rod, usually made of reed, ending in a head where the branch of fiber to be spun is wound. It incorporates a wheel, a pedal or crank, and a small bobbin or fixed rotating support. The spinning wheel or spindle is a very ancient tool that has often held significance as a symbol. Among the most well-known is that of Saint Elizabeth of Hungary, who spun for the poor. In India, the spinning wheel is a symbol of the struggle against British imperialism.
A spindle is an object used for spinning textile fibers. In its simplest form, it is a long, rounded piece of wood, sharpened at both ends, with a round counterweight and stopper, called a whorl, nut, tortoiseshell, or flyer, usually located at the bottom. To spin with a spindle, one begins by taking a tuft of textile fiber such as wool, cotton, linen, and twists a portion between the fingers to form a strand. This initial strand is tied to the spindle, and the twisting process continues. Meanwhile, with the other hand, the spindle is rotated with one end anchored on the ground, so that the strand wraps around it. In this operation, the flyer helps prevent the spindle from destabilizing and falling. Once the spindle is full, the spun fiber is unwound manually or with a swift, to be stored as a ball or skein. In the latter case, a spindle can also be used.
Both the spindle and the spinning wheel have been considered magical objects in pagan cultures, with a connection between the art of spinning and the supernatural world. The act of spinning is considered a magical act because, due to its rhythmic and circular nature, it induces altered states of consciousness or meditative states, similar to the effect of repetitive dance or the continuous rhythm of a drum. In cultures where great goddesses have embodied the virtues of the moon, earth, and vegetation, the spindle and spinning wheel become attributes of human destiny.
Introducing the three distinct garments that pay homage to the timeless craft of spinners. In crafting this ensemble, we drew inspiration from the skilled artisans known as hilanderas. Our commitment to sustainability led us to repurpose textile waste from Gamarra, Lima - Peru, to fashion the vest and skirt. Additionally, the jersey, a centerpiece of our collection, was meticulously created using deadstock yarns sourced from a historic spinning factory in Sabadell, Barcelona.
These garments serve as a tribute to the forgotten artistry of spinning, seeking to bridge the gap between past traditions and the contemporary landscape of our brand's capitalist city setting. In a deliberate choice, we focused on designing practical attire tailored for the hustle and bustle of urban life. The inclusion of thoughtfully designed pockets pays homage to the ones where hilanderas might have stored their threads and tools, allowing for both comfort and functionality.The jersey, a testament to our dedication to craftsmanship, is expertly constructed from three threads — one of wool and two of acrylic.
Through this piece, we aim to elevate the value of artisanal knitted garments. Our commitment to authenticity extends to the manufacturing process, as these garments are skillfully crafted on tricot machines recovered from the 70s and 80s.
This collection not only encapsulates the spirit of the hilanderas but also serves as a reminder of their enduring legacy, seamlessly blending tradition with modernity in each meticulously designed piece.
Talents:
Stef (She/They, Netherlands)
moved from Amsterdam to Barcelona 1.5 years ago to escape the cold and pursue hormone therapy. Trained as a literary author and translator, she wrote the book 'Farewell to Paradise.' Currently, she works as a waitress at La Raposa de Poble Sec. In the future, she would like to live in a commune and become a mother.
Photographer: Sofia Casals, (She/They, Chile) @zoficasals
Stylist: Andrea Cuadrado (They, Nicaragua) @andreasachhs
Espíritu Club
Team:
Silva @5ilv4 , Luciana @lucianaxreynoso , Annika @sunneeeeeeeeee and Ric @babybluric